It all started back in 1935, when the death of retired British Army Colonel Thomas Edward Lawrence, also known as Lawrence of Arabia, who crashed on his Brough Superior SS100, made such an impression on young doctor Hugh Cairns, who tried to save his life, that he decided to dedicate the following decades to studying road safety and creating protective gear for motorcyclists.
Cairns analyzed 2,279 fatal motorcycle accidents and concluded that in most cases, the cause of death was head trauma. Thanks to his research conducted between 1941 and 1946, the British Standards Institution in the early 1950s published a list of requirements and testing methods for motorcycle helmets. Around the same time, the first design that became the foundation of all modern helmets was patented in the United States.
For the first time, motorcyclists were legally required to wear helmets in 1961 in Australia, where even today special attention is paid to rider safety. For example, the Australian/New Zealand standard AS/NZS 1698:2006 is considered one of the strictest government helmet certification standards.
A little later, in 1967, motorcyclists were required to use helmets in the USSR, and around the same time in other countries as well, the helmet became mandatory protective equipment.
Such active development of legislation was driven by the increasing number of two-wheeled vehicles on the roads, higher speeds, and most importantly, the high fatality rate among motorcyclists.
In 2005, the UK Department for Transport published a report stating that despite motorcyclists making up less than 1% of all road users, they accounted for 19% of fatalities, with 80% of deaths caused by head trauma. Moreover, motorcyclists sustained such injuries in 70% of accidents. Grim statistics and this was nearly half a century after helmet laws were first introduced!
Of course, throughout their history, motorcycle helmets have evolved somewhat, but the concept established in the 1950s has remained unchanged: on the outside — a hard “shell,” inside — an impact-absorbing material. Initially, helmets covered only the upper part of the head, but as they developed, helmets appeared that covered the back of the head and ears, and a little later the so-called “full-face” helmets emerged, covering the rider’s head entirely. However, as new types of helmets were created, the old ones did not fade into history and continued to be in demand on the market, meaning that even today it is possible to buy a classic “pudding bowl” helmet.
There are five main types of helmets
Full-face
This type of helmet is called a “full-face”, it completely covers the rider’s head and usually has a visor as well as many additional features. It is the most popular helmet type today, used both by athletes and ordinary motorcyclists, regardless of the type of bike they ride. Almost every manufacturer offers a line of full-face helmets.
Three-quarter or “open-face”
A three-quarter helmet differs from a full-face mainly in the absence of a “chin guard,” while the rest of the design and materials are quite similar. This helmet provides decent protection and usually matches well even with the style of classic motorcycles. It may have a visor, a peak, or even built-in dark glasses, or it may simply be offered in a “bare” version.
Modular
Also called flip-up or “transformer,” this relatively new helmet format allows for changing its configuration. Most often, a regular full-face can be converted into a 3/4 helmet by lifting the chin guard, but there are also designs that can transform into two or more types, for example, by installing additional parts that convert a full-face into a dual-sport or open helmet. Unfortunately, such wide functionality comes at the cost of greater weight, increased noise, and sometimes reduced safety compared to regular helmets, but for many riders, the convenience makes up for it.
Half-helmet (“pudding bowl”)
The smallest of all existing helmet types, it covers only the upper part of the head, temples, and forehead. Riders who do not want to wear a “cooking pot” but also wish to avoid problems with traffic police choose such helmets. Its protective qualities are barely better than those of a fur hat, but it is enough not to attract the attention of traffic inspectors. Usually, these helmets are chosen for classic or vintage motorcycles, emphasizing the authenticity of the machine with the owner’s gear.
Off-road (motocross)
This helmet is designed for off-road riding, motocross and enduro motorcycles, buggies, and ATVs. Off-road helmets feature an elongated chin guard that makes breathing easier and a peak that blocks dirt flying, for example, from the wheel of the motorcycle ahead.
Such helmets usually do not have visors, instead, special goggles are used, although exceptions exist. For example, “dual-sport” helmets look like off-road models but also feature a visor, removable peak, and sometimes sunglasses. These helmets are most often chosen by riders of heavy touring enduros who cover long distances on both asphalt and dirt.
Materials
Regardless of the helmet type, the materials used differ only slightly. Today, there are two fundamentally different kinds: thermoplastics and composites. The first type has several drawbacks, heavier weight, and if the shell is glued from two halves, lower strength, which is offset by low cost.
Their opposite is composites. This can be carbon fiber, where the shell is “baked” from carbon fabric, or other materials and their combinations. Often, the outer shell includes layers of carbon fiber, Kevlar, and fiberglass, or several materials layered together to complement each other.
Composite helmets are noticeably more expensive, but their lower weight and usually higher strength more than justify the price. It may seem foolish to overpay even £100 for 200-300 grams of weight savings, but racers, who experience high g-forces in turns and braking and must fight helmet inertia, will disagree with you. As will travellers covering more than a thousand kilometers in a day, after 10-15 hours, extra weight on the head becomes a serious burden.
While the “shell” materials differ, the impact-absorbing liner inside is almost always the same, a foamed material resembling polystyrene. Of course, helmets vary, and some models even feature inflatable padding that reduces the inner volume to fit any head, but even those use the same type of foamed base.
Fasteners also differ and fall into two categories: the so-called “double-D” or D-ring and everything else. The D-ring is the most reliable fastening system. At first, it may seem inconvenient, but it ensures the best fixation, which is why all top-level racing helmets, where safety is paramount, use the double-D.
Other fasteners may use ratchets or buckles, similar to car seatbelts or snowboard bindings. This system is most common in budget and mid-range helmets, as it is considered less reliable but more convenient for everyday city use and easier for untrained people to remove in an emergency.
Visors
Helmet visors differ in shape, appearance, and mounting system, but all are made from acrylic glass, which scratches very quickly and easily.
Unfortunately, alternatives such as plexiglass or ordinary glass are unacceptable, the main requirements for a visor are high flexibility and minimal shattering that could injure the rider’s face and eyes in an accident.
That is why visors usually need replacing every year or even twice a year. Even within one helmet model, the selection is often wide. Depending on the brand, you can buy tinted, mirrored, or colored visors. Some manufacturers equip helmets with photochromic visors that darken in sunlight.
To prevent fogging, helmets are often fitted with special inserts that sit tightly against the visor, creating a kind of double glazing.
The most famous producer of such inserts is Pinlock. Like “Xerox,” the word “Pinlock” has become generic for any anti-fog insert.
In addition, there are anti-fog coatings applied at the factory or sold as care products, as well as similar solutions for improving water droplet removal during rain, but their effectiveness is not always evident.
If you often ride in the rain, it makes sense to consider touring gloves with a built-in “wiper”. This is the most effective, convenient, and scratch-free way to clean the visor from water droplets.
Pay attention to the presence of a breath guard, which can also slightly reduce fogging in cold weather. Most often it is included with the helmet, but it can also be sold separately.
Some helmets are equipped with built-in sunglasses, which deploy with a button or lever. When buying, make sure the mechanism works smoothly and that internal parts do not scratch the lenses when moving.
Enduro riders whose helmets lack visors have almost the same choice of goggles: double, tinted, mirrored, or colored. There are also special devices for keeping lenses clean in mud.
These are called “roll-offs” and consist of two spools on the sides of the goggles with a transparent film stretched between them. As the lens gets dirty, the rider winds the dirty film onto one spool and pulls a clean section into the field of view.
An alternative is tear-offs, thin transparent layers stuck on the goggles. During a race, the rider simply peels them off one by one. This simple and effective method is used in the MXGP motocross world championship. Similar solutions are also applied in regular full-face helmets, for example, BMW’s racing full-face helmet offers thin plastic tear-off films, though they can only be replaced during pit stops.
Interior lining
The inner lining of most helmets is removable and usually made of washable hypoallergenic fabrics. Some exceptions use natural fibers. These helmets are considered more comfortable but require more care, for example, sweat-soaked lining must be removed and washed, otherwise it will not only smell but also rot.
At the same time, synthetic fabrics, often used in budget or off-road helmets, may be less comfortable but are much easier to maintain, for example, the lining of motocross helmets often withstands cleaning with a pressure washer. In any case, if you are buying a helmet for more than one season, it should have removable padding that can be washed separately.
Ventilation
When choosing a helmet, pay attention to the ventilation system. Besides the diameter of the vents, check their number and adjustability: while abundant ventilation is a clear advantage for off-road helmets, for road or touring helmets too many non-adjustable vents are not always a good thing, they increase aerodynamic drag and create extra noise, which adds to rider fatigue during long trips.
As mentioned earlier, fatigue also depends partly on helmet weight, even 200 grams can make a noticeable difference. Helmet weights vary more than twofold between models! The heaviest are modulars with extra features and cheap Chinese thermoplastic full-faces, which can weigh 1,900 grams or more, while the lightest half-helmets or carbon fiber full-faces can be as light as 900 grams!
Accessories
Most manufacturers allow for built-in installation of communication systems, so if you plan to use one, it is worth choosing a helmet model that supports headset installation.
In the future, with the advent of next-generation helmets featuring augmented reality technology, where navigation, rearview cameras, and other data are projected onto the visor, the need for external accessories may decrease. Such developments are underway worldwide, and there is reason to believe they will soon be available to the general public.
Certification
It is important to remember that all helmets sold as motorcycle helmets must be certified. Each country has its own procedure and requirements.
In the US, the mandatory standard is FMVSS 218, indicated by the “DOT” mark on the back of the helmet. In Europe, the standard requires a label sewn onto the strap, showing a circle with the letter E and a number corresponding to the country where the testing was done. The UK and Australia also have their own standards.
In addition to mandatory certifications, there are voluntary tests that reputable manufacturers undergo. One such extended test is SHARP (Safety Helmet Assessment and Rating Programme), which includes crash tests and provides ratings to help buyers choose a helmet.
In any case, even if the helmet you like did not receive five stars, it is important to understand that even the cheapest uncertified Chinese full-face is still better than no helmet at all. Such a helmet may fall short compared to premium models, but it will most likely save your life and health.
Choosing the right size
When choosing a helmet, the main factor should be how it fits your head. Many motorcycle shops provide a balaclava for trying helmets, but we recommend getting your own. A balaclava helps keep the lining clean and makes it easier to put on and take off the helmet. When putting on a helmet, don’t forget to gently pull the sides apart using the straps.
A properly fitted helmet should sit snugly against your head and cheeks, but not press uncomfortably and definitely not wobble. Walk around the store for 10-15 minutes to get used to the feel and make sure there is no discomfort. Assess visibility, the helmet should not obstruct your peripheral vision, and the edge of the visor should not limit your forward view.
And most importantly, remember that a helmet is single-use gear. Some manufacturers even say that a minor fall or a light bump is enough reason to at least have the helmet checked at a dealership for internal damage, if not replaced entirely.
After a serious crash, even if the scratches look minor and the helmet appears intact, it may not protect properly the second time, the impact-absorbing liner is designed for just one use. Scientists have calculated that a helmet’s effective protection lasts only 2-4 milliseconds, regardless of how many years it has been used before its first accident.