How to Buy a Used Motorcycle: 50 Tips for Inspecting

Buying a used motorcycle is always a gamble. Surprises can arise even when buying a used bike from an official dealer, such as one that has been traded in by its former owner. That’s why it’s essential to inspect a second-hand two-wheeler with particular care. We’ve gathered 50 tips from experienced motorcyclists that explain in detail what to look for when choosing a bike on the secondary market.

Keep in mind that this is general information about selecting a motorcycle. It’s worth checking out forums and communities dedicated to the models you’re interested in to learn about specific problems associated with them and to obtain a service manual. Nevertheless, even armed only with general theoretical knowledge, your risk of buying a problematic bike is significantly reduced.

1. Choose from several offers

After selecting the bikes that interest you, call the owners to confirm the availability of documents and the possibility of negotiation. Ask why they are selling the bike, sometimes urgency can lead to an additional discount. However, urgency and a large discount can also be a red flag, good motorcycles aren’t heavily discounted. Most likely, a low price hides legal or technical problems.

2. Avoid bikes with suspiciously low prices

You may face more issues than benefits. Often these are restored bikes or “no-docs” (motorcycles with no documentation), which are likely stolen or imported illegally. In either case, your joy may be short-lived, the police may seize the bike when you attempt to register it.

3. Ask the seller for usage details

Request additional photos of key motorcycle components via social media. The owner’s profile can give clues about how the bike was used and maintained. Also, try searching for the owner’s account on motorcycle forums and websites.

4. Check if the motorcycle is stolen or restricted

Use the police website and services like CryptoMoto to check the bike’s history and any registration restrictions.

5. Inspect the storage conditions

Find out where the bike was kept during the season, whether it was winterized properly, and the storage conditions in winter. Prefer warm garage storage with proper conservation, this helps avoid rust, dried rubber parts, and other problems from prolonged outdoor storage.

Note that many used bike dealers focus more on visual polish than actual technical preparation.

6. Make sure you’re viewing the exact bike from the ad

Some sellers post non-existent bikes at attractive prices to lure buyers, only to show less desirable ones upon arrival. You can find reviews of business sellers online, the larger and older the dealer, the more info is available. Try reverse image searching to see if the same photos appear in other listings.

7. Ensure a full set of documents

Any bike with an engine over 50cc must have an original vehicle passport, sales contracts from previous owners (if applicable), and a customs declaration if it was recently imported. If the bike is already registered, it should have a registration certificate and a license plate issued by the police.

8. Check the serial numbers of the motorcycle units

Most motorcycles have a VIN on the frame (steering column near the right fork leg). Ensure it’s intact, readable, and shows no signs of tampering. If the police suspect tampering, they may impound the bike for examination.

Don’t be alarmed if the engine number is missing in documentation, this is now only recorded in the motorcycle documentary. If the written number differs from the engine, it means the engine was replaced due to failure or an accident.

If the replacement engine doesn’t bother you, verify that the model matches the original. Otherwise, the police may consider it a structural change requiring certification.

9. Check mileage accuracy

British scientists found that the average motorcycle rider covers 7-10k km per season. So a 3-year-old bike typically has about 20-30k km of mileage. Compare this to the claimed mileage.

Signs of falsified mileage include worn handlebars, footrests, levers, and cosmetic defects. Even careful riders will show wear marks from gear and luggage. Excessive wear or recent replacement suggests tampering.

Don’t dismiss high-mileage bikes entirely with proper service and luck, they can serve for many more seasons.

10. Inspect the frame for damage or repairs

There should be no cracks or signs of repair or repainting. Pay close attention to welds: factory welds are neat and even. Check the subframe and steering column for mechanical damage, these areas are most prone to deformation.

11. Inspect the front and rear suspension

Sit on the bike and bounce it up and down. The shocks should work smoothly without jerks or knocking sounds. Check for oil leaks on the fork tubes and rear shock spring.

Ensure there’s no rust, damage, or scratches on the fork tubes. The forks must be straight without dents or bends.

12. Check the steering head bearing

Lift the front wheel and move the handlebars side to side. It should turn smoothly without sticking or centering.

13. Examine throttle, clutch, and brake cables

Cables must be intact and not frayed, breakage can cause accidents. Levers should return smoothly. Otherwise, they’ll need lubrication or replacement.

14. Check brake and clutch levers

Levers should feel firm but smooth, without sticking. They must be straight and free from rust or damage.

Non-standard or “sport” foldable levers are often installed after a crash, originals can break even in minor falls.

15. Inspect brake discs and pads

Worn pads or discs are a reason to negotiate the price. A new set of discs costs around £100-£400, depending on the model. Severe wear also hints at high mileage.

Spin the front wheel while lifted; uneven friction indicates warped discs, often from crashes or overheating. Also, check brake caliper mounts.

16. Test the braking system

Roll the bike forward in neutral and use the front and rear brakes. Spongy levers or pedals suggest air in the brake lines, fixable but dangerous if left alone.

17. Inspect brake lines

Carefully inspect the brake hoses near the expansion reservoirs. There should be no cuts or cracks on them, otherwise, brake fluid can leak out, and the system can become airlocked. Shallow damage on the outer sheath of the hoses is acceptable, minor abrasions and scratches do not affect the mechanism’s functionality.

You should also pay attention to the color of the fluid in the reservoir: dark or cloudy fluid needs to be replaced immediately after purchase. Moreover, if it is completely black, in addition to the fluid, you may need to spend money on a set of new rubber seals and oil seals.

18. Measure brake pad thickness

If the thickness of the friction pads on the brake shoes is less than 1 mm, they will need to be replaced, which can be taken into account during price negotiations. The price of a set of quality pads for disc brakes ranges from £20 to £60 per caliper, depending on the friction material composition and the motorcycle model.

Checking the wear of drum brakes is more difficult since the drum is usually covered, but many manufacturers install a special indicator that allows you to see the wear of the drum brake shoes without removing the wheel.

19. Check spark plug carbon deposits

When buying carbureted motorcycles and performing a hands-on inspection, it makes sense to remove the spark plugs and assess their condition. Additionally, on older motorcycles, the color of the deposits on the spark plugs can indicate the quality of the fuel-air mixture prepared by the carburetor.

Heavy black soot is a sign of a rich mixture, meaning that more fuel is entering than necessary, while light, whitish deposits indicate an overly lean mixture.

Ideally, the deposits should be a grayish brick color, but not always, modern engines, restricted by European environmental standards, are increasingly set to run lean by default, so judging the engine condition by spark plug color is gradually becoming outdated. However, it’s still useful to check the spark plugs for dryness (if there are ignition system problems or oil is getting into the combustion chamber, the spark plug will be wet).

20. Measure engine compression

With spark plugs removed, insert a compression tester, open the throttle fully, and crank until the gauge stops rising. Compare to the manual’s specs. Big deviations suggest engine trouble.

It’s best to have a pro do this to avoid damaging the plug threads.

21. Start the engine cold

Ask the seller not to start it before your visit. Cold-start issues may indicate a weak battery, injector repair, carburetor tuning, valve adjustment, or even a full engine rebuild.

If the radiator is warm upon arrival despite your request, walk away.

22. Check the generator

Start the bike and connect a multimeter to the rectifier wires (usually under the seat). Measure voltage across the red and green wires. It should be above 12V, typically 13.5V or 14V. Below 12V suggests a faulty rectifier or generator.

You can also test the battery, it should show at least 12V when the engine is off.

23. Make sure the engine idles steadily

After warming up, the engine should run smoothly, without backfires or unusual noises; however, it’s important to consider the specifics of the particular model: the sound of a “normally” running engine depends on its type and number of cylinders. In any case, the tachometer needle at idle should not fluctuate beyond a range of 1000-2000 RPM.

24. Test each cylinder

Check the operation of all engine cylinders: it’s hard to make a mistake with a single-cylinder engine, but for engines with two or more cylinders, you can use a medical stethoscope or simply touch the exhaust pipes with a damp cloth. If the water on the cloth starts to evaporate, everything is fine.

During warm-up, smoke may come from the motorcycle’s exhaust pipe. Hold a sheet of paper near the outlet. If you feel water condensation, there’s nothing to worry about and it will disappear after warming up. However, if white-gray smoke pours out even when the engine is hot, the engine is definitely “worn out,” likely due to worn valve stem seals and piston ring components, which could lead to costly repairs in the near future. Black smoke indicates problems with fuel delivery and ignition, while white steam that doesn’t disappear when heated indicates antifreeze entering the combustion chamber.

If the engine is in good condition, after warming up in warm weather, its exhaust should become completely clear at any RPM. Anything else can be considered a malfunction.

25. Listen to engine noise

A characteristic “ticking” sound from the valves may indicate that their clearance needs adjustment. On older single-cylinder engines, this procedure takes about 15 minutes and doesn’t require complicated tools. However, on modern engines, it means a long and expensive visit to the service center, the shims and hydraulic lifters in multi-cylinder engines are costly and not easy to replace.

Fortunately, this issue is only relevant for motorcycles with high mileage, so the need to adjust the valves on a relatively “fresh” motorcycle might indicate inaccurate odometer readings.

26. Check for timing chain rattle

Rev the engine and let go of the throttle. Rattling can indicate a stretched timing chain, especially at 60-80k km.

It might just be a worn tensioner. Unchecked chains can skip and cause engine damage.

Gear-driven timing systems don’t have this issue. Belt-driven ones require belt and tensioner replacement, regardless of claimed service history.

27. Check oil level and condition after warming up

After warming, turn off the engine and check oil via sight glass or dipstick. It shouldn’t smell like fuel, have milky residue (water), or glittery particles (metal).

Excess oil consumption and blue smoke point to serious engine wear.

28. Inspect the oil pan

Check the lower part of the engine: there should be no leaks or cracks. A non-original oil drain plug is a sign of stripped threads or tuning done after a breakdown. A heavily worn plug with rounded edges indicates it has been frequently turned, which most likely means the motorcycle has considerable mileage.

29. Check the gearbox and clutch

Make sure the gears shift smoothly and precisely. Neutral gear should engage easily without a long search. Engaging the clutch should not cause jerks or jolts. However, this point mostly applies to Japanese models, while European motorcycles don’t always have the same crispness in gear shifting.

That’s why the only reliable way to check the gearbox is by taking a test ride and revving the throttle in all gears. If there are no crunching noises and the gears don’t pop out, the gearbox is in good condition.

30. Test all lights

Start the bike and test low/high beams, tail light, turn signals, and horn. If the light becomes significantly brighter when revving up, and dimmer when turning on the turn signals, this is a sure sign of a discharged battery or a faulty relay-regulator or wiring, due to which the battery does not receive a proper charge.

The cost of a good motorcycle battery starts from £20, which can also be taken into account in the final amount of the discount, but a simple replacement of the motorcycle battery does not eliminate the need for further diagnostics and electrical repairs.

31. Check if the brake lever activates the brake light

The brake light may fail for various reasons: from a burnt-out bulb to faulty wiring. Usually, the problem is solved quickly and inexpensively, but when buying, this can be a reason to negotiate the price, and a working lighting system strongly affects safety. Besides, without a functioning brake light, you won’t be able to pass the technical inspection and get a diagnostic card before arranging insurance.

32. Assess the condition of the instrument panel

The instrument panel is one of the most expensive motorcycle components, and if it breaks down, replacement can be costly. There should be no signs of damage or tampering on the panel.

The absence of the instrument panel or a non-original panel indicates interference with the instrument’s operation, most likely for repair purposes or to reduce the mileage reading.

33. Check the warning indicators on the instrument panel

Make sure the icons “check engine,” “overheating,” and “low oil level” light up after turning on the ignition and turn off after the engine starts. Some unscrupulous sellers simply remove the indicator lamp for “check engine,” claiming everything is fine.

Besides the control lamps, instrument panels on motorcycles equipped with an electronic engine control unit may display error messages, which is also a reason to have a diagnostic check at a service center.

On motorcycles with an anti-lock braking system (ABS), the “ABS” light may stay on until the speed reaches about 10 km/h. On older BMW motorcycles, the ABS fault indicator stays on until both wheels make one full rotation and the rider presses both the front and rear brakes.

34. Check the operation of the side stand sensor

Ask the seller to demonstrate whether the engine cuts off when the side stand is down with the gear engaged, and at the same time, check the functionality of the emergency engine kill switch.

35. Measure the free play of the drive chain

The free play of the chain should be 3-4 cm along the entire length. Put the motorcycle on the center stand and spin the wheel, carefully inspecting the chain. Sagging in one place and tightness in another is a sign of uneven wear and an indication for replacement. Checking for even wear is simple: lift the rear wheel off the ground and, rotating it half a turn, measure the free play.

All measurements of sag should be consistent; otherwise, the chain needs to be replaced. The cost of a new chain and sprocket set ranges from £100 to £250.

The chain should not look “chewed up” or sagging. The sprocket teeth should be even and straight. Tilted or sharp-ended teeth are a sign that they will soon wear out. Marks on the swingarm can serve as an indirect indicator of the remaining chain life. The closer the wheel axle is moved toward the rear part of the swingarm, the sooner a new chain will be needed.

If the motorcycle has a shaft drive, its technical condition can only be checked at a specialized service. On-site, you can inspect the condition of rubber seals and make sure there are no oil leaks.

36. Inspect the wheel rims

There should be no signs of paint, dents, or damage on the rims. Bent rims do not hold pressure in tubeless tires, and straightening rims can be expensive. A rim with scratch marks usually indicates a heavy impact, which may have affected other parts of the motorcycle.

It’s also worth checking the rim’s geometry — for this, lift the wheel and spin it — wobbling is a sign of serious problems and costly replacement.

37. Make sure there is no play in the wheel bearings

If possible, place the motorcycle on the center stand. Ask the seller to press down on the tail of the motorcycle and wiggle the front wheel sideways to check for bearing play (if it moves front-to-back, that means there are no bearings at all). Similarly, check the rear wheel and the swingarm axle for play.

While play is inconvenient, it’s not usually a reason to refuse buying. Repair is relatively inexpensive (by motorcycle standards), and bearing replacement is common. However, bearing play at low mileage should raise reasonable doubts about the accuracy of the stated metrics.

38. Assess the condition of the tires

The service life of motorcycle rubber, if stored properly, is about three years. Finding the manufacturing date is easy, it is usually on the tire sidewall as the last four digits in a line starting with the abbreviation DOT or just numbers in a rectangle. The first two digits represent the week, the last two the year of manufacture.

Besides the age of the rubber, check its wear. Soft tires may wear out in as little as 5,000 km. Check the tread shape, and make sure there are no cracks, cuts, or repair marks.

Non-original tires on a relatively new motorcycle (up to three years old) with declared mileage up to 5,000–10,000 km raise questions. Mid-range and higher motorcycles come from the factory with decent tires.

39. Check the remaining tread depth

In most countries by law, it should be at least 0.8 mm. Bald, worn out, or shaved tires are a reason to negotiate a discount. A good set of street tires starts from £150.

“Tire squaring” means the motorcycle has been ridden a lot in a straight line (likely on a trip), and the width of the unused tire edges (called “chicken strips”) indirectly indicates the owner’s riding style.

40. Make sure the motorcycle hasn’t been “burned out”

If you see chunks of burnt rubber under the rear fender, on the tread, or the swingarm, these are results of “burnouts” (spinning the tires), which do no favors to the clutch or engine. Also note blue or yellow brake discs, which indicate overheating or track use.

Check the underside of the rider’s footpegs — scuff marks on asphalt suggest either a specific riding style, possibly on a track, or falls. The same applies to wear on protruding parts of the wheel axles. After a fall, these parts are rarely replaced.

41. Inspect the plastic fairing parts

Small chips and damage on plastic parts are normal for motorcycles. Falls on the spot or at low speed usually don’t cause significant damage to the fairings. High-speed crashes or collisions often damage the front and side plastics. Replacing these is expensive, and usually, minor damage is repaired rather than replaced.

If possible, inspect the inside of the fairings, repair marks will be obvious. Also, unusual fasteners or bolts with damaged heads may indicate repair.

42. Assess the symmetry of the fairing parts

Ask the seller to place the motorcycle vertically and look at it from the front. Gaps or plastic fractures may indicate a crash or non-original fairing parts. Even a slight feeling that the fairing is crooked may mean the motorcycle has fallen and the frame (the “spider” tubular construction holding the front fairing) was not replaced but only adjusted.

43. Closely inspect the paintwork

It’s best to inspect paintwork in daylight outdoors: artificial indoor lighting can hide many defects. Make sure the motorcycle’s color matches the one in the registration certificate — exceptions may be complicated multicolor paint schemes.

44. Look for signs of repairs and repainting

Cracks in the paint indicate poor-quality repairs after falls or accidents. Also, paint on plastic fuel tanks may deteriorate from gasoline leaks. Carefully examine the plastic near the filler neck, if fuel traces are found there, discuss a possible discount with the seller.

Airbrushing and stickers also break the original quality paintwork. Under stickers, the paint fades unevenly. Such “tuning” is often used to hide accident damage.

45. Compare the shades of painted parts

Different shades may indicate repainting, for example after an accident repair, although some factory paint schemes come with varied shades.

46. Inspect the fuel tank

You can check the integrity of the metal fuel tank paint with a special device — a thickness gauge, which reveals places with filler and repainting. By the way, after tank repairs and repainting, service personnel often do not paint flat areas near lower welds and under the cap. These spots show clearly that the tank was repainted.

Shine a flashlight inside the tank — there should be no rust. Rust can appear if water got into the tank, meaning there are damages, or low-quality gasoline was used, or storage conditions were violated.

There should be no strong smell of gasoline with the cap closed. If there is, there might be damage to the fuel system or seals on the tank cap.

Also, be aware of “drowned” or “snowflake” motorcycles — bikes that spent some time in water or were stored in a cold and damp garage or outdoors with an empty tank.

47. Inspect the handlebars and steering column

Scratches on the handlebars and steering column are usually caused by a bunch of keys. You can ask for a discount and later get a special key fob or use the ignition key separately from the rest.

In falls, protruding elements beyond the motorcycle’s dimensions suffer first, handlebar weights and grips. Worn or bent weights (as well as non-original ones) may indicate the motorcycle has fallen.

48. Try the folding mirror mechanism

Mirrors on many motorcycles fold — ask the owner to show how it works. If the motorcycle was in an accident or has non-original mirrors, there may be problems folding them.

49. Assess the condition of the seat

Remove the seat and inspect the inside: a reupholstered seat may sometimes indicate odometer tampering or an accident.

Heavy scuffs, dents, cracks, and cuts on the outside of the seat are not critical but are a significant reason to ask for a discount!

50. Ask about the presence of non-original parts

Tuning can be functional (e.g., mounts for luggage systems or engine protection) or used instead of original parts after repairs.

When it’s “tuning for the soul,” the owner will most likely offer you the original parts. If they are missing, it’s worth asking about the reasons for such a replacement. Whether these non-standard parts are a plus or a minus is up to the buyer to decide.

Sellers often include a percentage of the tuning cost in the final price of the motorcycle. If you don’t need the additional elements and accessories, discuss the possibility of removing them or getting a discount.

So to sum it up

Of course, such an inspection, despite the number of points, will not reveal all the bike’s problems, so it’s important to remember that if you have any doubts, it’s worth spending some money to take the motorcycle for a diagnostic check at a service center, because no inspection will cost more than repairing a “dead” engine or a “crooked” frame.

And if the bike you liked scored all 50 or close to that number of “pluses” on this checklist — congratulations, you now have a great motorcycle that will most likely serve you for many years without major problems!

But if the nuances when buying a used motorcycle outweigh the possible advantages, consider options for affordable new motorcycles or try to pick a new bike yourself using CryptoMoto’s automatic motorcycle selection system.